Skip to main content

Banjolele rim #1 - the first segment layer

After a few practice attempts (aka false starts) at making rim segments last year, this weekend I had my first proper crack at it. The problems I'd run into previously were mainly due to starting off with non-squared stock material. This time I picked a ropey log from the pile of pallet wood I have (allegedly Mango, but could be anything) and squared it up. This particular piece was not the best, mainly consisting of knots, nail holes and worm holes and a little bit of wood holding everything together. I don't want to screw up on something that was too nice, but what started off as a fairly substantial piece only yielded enough wood to make one 12-segment layer for the banjolele.

Anyway, once I'd squared up the stock, I needed to cut the segments at 15 degrees on the mitre saw. The calculation to get the correct angle to set the mitre saw for segmented is

(360 / #segments) / 2

which is where the 15 degrees comes from in this case.

First problem! My mitre saw had fixed positions for common angles, 15 degrees included, but when I checked the angle it was 14.3 degrees. That's simply too far out when making 24 cuts, so I had to set the saw manually using an angle gauge.

edit: I've since found that it is possible to true-up the preset angles on the mitre saw although I've not been entirely successful so far.

Once I had the saw set up correctly, I cut the segments, flipping them over as I went along. I marked alternate segments A and B, so that I'd end up with six of each which would be alternate, and every other one flipped over when making the dodecagon. Doing this compensates for the saw blade being not exactly vertical (this only works for an even number of sections)

I found a great series on block rim building on youtube by Richard Brown and used a few of his tips to do the glue-up. Here are the 12 rim segments laid out on a stretch of masking tape against a straight edge to help in keeping it all level.

segments stuck to masking tape
Here is a close-up, where you can see a couple of the segments marked 'B'. The  'A' segments are marked on the opposite side.

close-up of segments
Next I rolled up the tape with the segments on to see how it looked. It was pretty good, and I reckoned once clamped everything would pull together quite nicely.

trial fitting
To clamp everything, I used a large hose clamp. I first tightened the clamp partly, then sandwiched the whole assembly between two pieces of MDF which I clamped together. Then I tightened the hose clamp, removed the dodecagon from the sandwich, and removed some of the glue squeeze-out. The joints looked as good as I could hope for, so fingers-crossed this will turn out OK. There are some pencil lines on the segments which from distance look like bad joints, bit the joints really do look pretty good.

glued and clamped

Another 24 hours to wait now.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Vox Pathfinder 10 and Pathfinder 15 Simulation

I've got a Vox Pathfinder 10 amplifier that I bought a couple of years ago, and I love it. It's a great little amplifier, but I don't care for the distortion channel, it just sounds harsh to my ears. There are quite simple modifications that can be done to this amplifier to remove the clipping LED's and increase the boost of the clean channel (check out Ben Craven's mods  for details). I'd been considering doing some of these, but whilst researching the subject, I discovered that the currently out of production (as at Nov '18)  Pathfinder 15/15R generally receives a lot more love than the Pathfinder 10. I found schematics for both the PF15 and the PF15R online, and saw that there were a lot of similarities between the PF10 and the PF15, particularly the earlier non-reverb PF15. The PF15R (with reverb) is quite a bit different after the first two opamp stages. I thought I'd model both the PF10 and PF15 pre-amp stages in LTspice  to see how they compar

Vox Pathfinder 15 Tremolo Repair

Last year, I snapped up a Vox Pathfinder 15 (non-reverb) combo amplifier from ebay. The seller was a charity shop, and the amplifier was listed as "untested", so I was taking a bit of a gamble, but figured I'd have a good chance of being able to fix it it it wasn't working, and cosmetically, it looked almost mint. When it arrived, I plugged it in, and as you guessed, it was not working. Barely any sound, and what sound there was was horribly distorted. One thin I did notice was the the power on LED was not aligned correctly with the hole in the back panel, so I did quickly took it apart, and realigned the potentiometers and LED indicator, but didn't have a look in detail at the circuit. I put it back together, but the problem remained. My guess was that the problem was the famous "cambridgitis" (just google that term and you'll find all about it). Basically, a problem where the optocoupler that controls the tremolo circuit fails. A common failure

Pete's Bazz Fuss

It's been ages since I built an effects pedal, so to get my soldering chops back up to speed, I decided I'd build a simple fuzz pedal for my long-time friend Pete as a surprise present for his impending birthday. The circuit I chose was the Bazz Fuss (yes that's the correct name)  which you can read about here if you care to. I went for the basic v1.0 of the circuit and used a 2N3904 for the transistor, and boxed everything in a 1590A sized enclosure. Despite a number of stupid mistakes that I had to rectify, I got it all done and boxed within a day, complete with lo-fi graphics. Here's a gut-shot. gut-shot And here is the finished item. lo-fi graphic It sounded OK when I played it although it needed the volume knob maxxed out to get the best out of it. Maybe a higher gain transistor would have been better still. I'm pretty sure Pete will like it though.